Lessons from Being Hit by a Dolphin
I have just returned from a family trip to Jeffreys Bay. Located in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, Jbay is home to one of the world’s best right-hand point breaks. From a surfer’s perspective, the wave is as close to perfection as exists in the natural world. Its sheer power and form defy the laws of nature.
Jeffreys Bay is also teeming with wildlife. The wave peels down a long point, which great white sharks travel along as they move from deep water to shallow in search of prey. In recent years there has been an increase in shark attacks. Few are fatal, but the frequency gives everyone pause. Sharks are always there, even if you don’t see them.
I have made several pilgrimages to Jbay since moving to South Africa. This year, we were invited by some friends with similar-aged children to join them for a week during the winter school break. We piled in the car and set off on the eight-hour journey from Cape Town, battered by unseasonably heavy rain.
The rain and wind destroyed the surf for three days upon our arrival. Surf trips always carry a significant risk: no surf. You can travel halfway around the world only to find your dream spot is flat with the wind blowing in the wrong direction. Whether they like to admit it or not, surfers must regularly confront their inability to control the ocean’s power.
